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  1. #21
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    Default Re: Camber adjustment??

    Quote Originally Posted by cheatah faheatah View Post
    Pic no good. 8-(
    pic was his sig. see that faint line above it. sig line.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, 2.8, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW

  2. #22
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    Default Re: Camber adjustment??

    it maybe just me, but if i right click the non view able pic, and open in new tab, it opens in the persons pb account and you can see the pic. unless its private, then you see nothing.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, 2.8, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW

  3. #23
    GrandPrix Junkie spazzz's Avatar
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    Default Re: Camber adjustment??

    Quote Originally Posted by Swiggles View Post
    I hated using the camber bolts, they are super tight.
    Super light??

  4. #24
    Turbo is the way to go. Fivefingerdeathpunch's Avatar
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    Default Re: Camber adjustment??

    Put some glasses on, it's a "T".

    lol

    SMGPFC Member #1

  5. #25
    GrandPrix Junkie spazzz's Avatar
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    Default Re: Camber adjustment??

    Quote Originally Posted by Fivefingerdeathpunch View Post
    Put some glasses on, it's a "T".

    lol
    Well what the hell does super tight mean. Is that camber bolt kegels.

    I thought he was refering to the camber bolt shaft size so maybe he did mean the camber bolt kegels.

  6. #26
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    Default Re: Camber adjustment??

    As a 30yr alignment tech, let me say that the aftermarket adjuster bolts, if installed properly work fine for general alignments.
    I would simply, when car came in and bosses would not want to sell or even stock them for sale, I would raise car by frame or body and simple remove lower strut bolt, loosen upper and pull wheel out and use carbide grinder to open slot to match spindle. Snug lower bolt by hand. Set car down and loosen upper bolt and then while car is sitting on wheels and machine is reading I would then use hand tools to "work" lower bolt and watch live feed as camber drops. I would have impact with sockets/swivel on one of the bolts as it gets to preferred specs hit the gun to lock it down . I generally can get most cars to preferred specs easy enough. I just hate most people want cheap alignment NOT proper alignment. But then good techs are hard to find.

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