I would like to start by saying that this page is only a guideline, and may or may not be complete due to various changed within the 97-03 Grand Prix GTP. This is only to give you another option to mount your intercooler, if you have a transmission cooler. My transmission cooler is a GMPP transmission cooler, so it bolted directly to existing holes, and has hard lines that tie into the transmission lines. Moving this for the intercooler install was not an option. Cutting my hood brace in my opinion was not an option so I had to come up with my own ideas for the install. The only other mod I have that will effect the install is the cold air box. This frees up allot of room in the front of the air box behind the headlight. Without this mod you may need to find a different route for your supply and return intercooler lines.

I spoke with Zoomer and if you are running the SS Intercooler there is no need for a breather. The stock PCV system remains intact. I have tested this to make sure, and it is the case. If you want to test it yourself, there are 2 ways. One is to take out the PCV valve and remove the rubber O-Ring on the bottom, and put the PCV back in. Notice the suction when you remove the oil cap, and the high pitched whistle. Now reinstall the O-Ring and the vacuum is gone from the oil cap as well as the high pitched whistle. The second way to test is to forget to put the O-Ring on the PCV when your are replacing the PCV...haha

Step 1...Remove the head lights. There are 2 10mm bolts and one long screw that have to be removed to take out the head light assembly. Disconnect the harness and remove head light assembly.

Step 2...Remove front bumper skin There are 3 screws in each fender well, 2 screws on the bottom of each fender well, 1 10mm bolt inside each fender well closest to the tire where the fender meets the bumper skin, 3 plastic clips across the top of the bumper skin, 3 plastic clips on the top of each lower air dam inlet. Unplug the driving lights on each side, then slide the bumper off. Note the bumper will slide forward about 4 inches and then can be removed. There is a slide retainer on the front bottom side of the fender, this is where the notch in the bumper skin is held by the fender.

Step 3...Remove front plastic snorkels. These are held on by one plastic clip on the front side of the upper radiator brace.

Step 4...Unclip the 3 wire loom clips from the drivers side working toward the passengers side, leaving the clip connected just opening the clip so the wire loom can be removed. Move wire loom out of the way.

Step 5...Remove bumper brace. There are 3 bolts (13mm) on each side of the bumper brace, 2 on the outside and one on the inside. Remove the 3 plastic clips (1 on each outside edge of the lower air dam and one big plastic clip in the center of the lower air dam) that attach the bottom piece of the lower air dam to the bumper brace. Then remove the 2 plastic retainers (one on each side between the big center clip and the outer clips) that hold the upper part of the lower air dam.

Step 6...Remove Upper Air Dam. There are 2 plastic clips (one on each side of the upper radiator brace). Also remove the outside Temperature sensor that is on the Passengers side of the air dam. Take note the hole that the temp sensor cable goes thru.

Step 7...Remove the plastic cover in front of the hood latch. There are 4 10mm bolts on the side of the hood latch, and 2 10mm bolts at each end of the cover.

Step 8...Remove the hood latch assembly AND brace. Remove the remote cable for the hood latch. There are 2 13mm bolts that attach the hood latch assembly to the upper radiator brace and 1 (I think its a 10mm nut) on the bottom of the brace where it attaches to the lower radiator brace.

Now that the prep work is done were ready to start the install.

Step 9...Cut the hood latch assembly. Keep in mind there are two parts here, the hood latch and the brace. We will only be cutting the brace with the exception of the cable retainer on the hood latch needs to be trimmed as shown in brace 2. A dremmel tool is great for this. Cut a notch out of the front of the brace as shown. Start at the bottom of the hood latch and cut about 1 inch into the main brace. Then cut a straight line using the back of the brace for a guide and cut straight down.

Step 10...Paint brace to keep from rusting, and reinstall

Step 11...Install Intercooler Radiator for test fit. Mark location of lower IC radiator support pegs on lower air dam. Drill a hole on each side of the lower air dam on just big enough for the IC radiator support pegs to drop down in. I used a washer in-between the IC radiator and the lower air dam just for my own piece of mind. Check to make sure IC radiator clears head light bracket on each side, and that hood latch brace is trimmed enough. Note in the picture the location of the transmission cooler, the placement of the IC Radiator between the headlight brackets.

Step 12...Once test fit is complete, remove IC Radiator and install black radiator hoses, and secure them with hose clamps so they extend toward the drivers side like in the picture.

Step 13...Cut upper part of the lower air dam. Place air dam up in front of IC radiator to mark location to cut. Cut straight down on the side so that sides of the IC radiator will clear the air dam, then cut across the air dam just above the hole that the temp sensor cable passes thru. You will need to cut a hole on the drivers side of the air dam for the coolant overflow hose that is on the top of the IC radiator. Cut a hole in the bottom of the air dam on the lower drivers side, this is for the lower IC radiator hose to pass thru. It needs to be towards the back of the curved piece so that the hose does not interfere with the lower air dam inlet on the bumper cover. Last cut is on the passengers side. You will need to cut a long rectangle hole and a small round hole identical to the ones that are where the temp sensor mounted. Cut this to the passengers side of where the cable for the temp sensor passes thru. This will relocate the temp sensor to the left side of the IC radiator so it does not rub against the IC Radiator or give false readings. When finished test fit. Its a pain to get the drivers side in and out, but it can be done. After test fit is complete, install the overflow hose that comes with the INTERDYNAMICS RETURN COOLANT TANK. After air dam is in place run the overflow hose thru a hole that is located under the headlight bracket on the drivers side that leads to the engine compartment.

Step 14...Install Bumper Brace. Reconnect wire loom to back side of bumper brace. Make 2 braces with the 3/4" aluminum stock. They should be about 5" total length and then bend 3/4 to 1" 90 deg bend and attach to IC radiator and bumper brace as shown in picture.

Step 16...Hose Connections. You should have 2 smaller in diameter clear hoses and 1 larger in diameter. Use the appropriate reducer to reduce the lower IC radiator hose to the smaller in diameter clear hose. Cut the lower IC radiator hose about 3 inches from the 45 deg bend. Install the adapter with a hose clamp and then install with hose clamps, one of the smaller in diameter clear hoses. This hose runs to the inlet side of the pump (closest to the fender well). Cut to fit.

Step 17...Install the other smaller in diameter hose with a hose clamp to the outlet side of the pump (farthest from the fender well). Leave outlet side hose free, we will be routing this thru to the engine compartment.

Step 18...Electrical Connections. Hook up the ground wire with the eyelet provided to the bolt right above the pump that holds the fender to the frame. Connect either side of a spade connector to the red wire. Now take about 7 feet of 12 gauge wire and connect the other spade connector to the end of the wire and connect the two spade connectors together. Run the wire thru the fender, into the air inlet for the cold air box and into the engine compartment. Use wire loom to protect the wire from rubbing against metal edges.

Step 19...Upper IC Radiator Hose Connections. You will need to cut about 3 inches of hose off the upper radiator hose. The object here is to keep the height of the hose below the impact absorption foam on the front bumper guard. Use the larger diameter clear tube and the appropriate adapter and connect the upper IC radiator hose to the clear hose using hose clamps.

Step 20...Cut Hole By Drivers Side Light Bracket. This is for the larger clear hose (upper IC radiator) and the smaller clear hose (pump outlet) to pass through into the engine compartment. The hole needs to be on the lower right side of the headlight back plate, as shown in the picture. On the back side of the back plate there is another plate that is welded in place. I cut along this second back plate so I didnt have to cut into both plates. Make the hole big enough for both hoses to pass thru into the engine compartment with a little extra room for some packing to shield the hoses from rubbing on the metal edges.

Step 21...Wrap the hoses in some type of thick electric tape or rubber, then wrap with electric tape and insert into the hole you cut on the above step.

Step 22.... Install, using hose clamps, the appropriate adapters on the clear hoses to reduce them to the 3/8 inch hose. Attach one end of the 9 foot 3/8 inch hose to one of the clear hoses with hose clamps and route hose to the back side of the supercharger, then cut. Connect the remaining length of hose to the other clear hose using hose clamps, and route it to the back side of the supercharger. This will leave enough for you to trim to fit later on part 2 of the install.

Step 23...Install Return Coolant Tank. I attached my tank to the top of the air box, so it hang off the side between the air box and the engine. Cut off the plastic ball at the lowest part of the tank and connect the overflow tube to the tank.

Step 24...Fill tank with Antifreeze and let drain to fill most of the hoses. Use about 50/50 antifreeze and distilled water.

Step 25...When hoses are about full, cap off the ends of the 3/8 inch line with bolts until you are ready to start Part 2 of the install.

Step 26...Test fit snorkel to front end, and cut as appropriate. Take note you will have to cut out a large notch in the drivers side snorkel to allow for the upper IC radiator hose. Install snorkels.

Step 27...Install bumper cover

Step 28...Install headlights (reconnect headlight harness)

Step 29...Connect driving lamps

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