Safely Filling Silencer Holes on ported Eaton M90 Gen III Supercharger with (PICS)

Originally Posted by SleeperGS

I just had my ports welded shut by a shop they knows what they are doing. They are the best in the Cincinnati area, so if anyone in Cincy area wants this done they only charged 50 bucks. I thought this was reasonable since it is done with a nice pretty bead...lol. As soon as my damn motor is finished, I will post up a vid. The motor is done, just not in the booick yet..

That's nice and all, thanks for sharing, but the point of this whole thread is to do it safely.

Regardless of how good the shop is, and how experienced the welder is, IF by some strange reason the welds come apart, or IF a piece chips for any reason, what do you think that will do once the pressure boosts the metal pieces down into your engine. A big chunk probably won't make it past the intake valve, but it definitely reap havoc once it gets stuck. A smaller piece will get by tho, and the things it will do to your cylinder walls, heads, pistons, etc... will make you shudder.

Thus the WHOLE plate idea came to him and a few others (seen it before) because if something comes undone, worse case is it blocks the air way and the engine starves itself and dies. Not destroys itself from the inside causing a need for a whole new motor.

Not saying what you did, is ineffective, or a bad idea. But it is, considerable more dangerous too given what can happen, or should I say, what HAS happened before. But again, thanks for sharing.

I don't think a weld is going to come off, I'd be real worried of warpage from all the heat.

Originally Posted by Sandman

I don't think a weld is going to come off, I'd be real worried of warpage from all the heat.

The large housing should act as a good heat sink.

Also, thick aluminum is fairly good at keeping it's shape unlike steel.

Originally Posted by Rico

The large housing should act as a good heat sink.

Also, thick aluminum is fairly good at keeping it's shape unlike steel.

We deal with plenty of heavy welding at work with steel so that's all I know about. Still you'd want to stitch weld it as a precaution.

I wager that my weld is stronger and more safe than JB weld; however the inclusive plate idea is a great idea. If I would have known this I would have made the plate and had it welded in. I know JB is good stuff, dont get me wrong, but nobody can convince me that JB will hold up to a MIG welder. It was welded with nice bead and there are no parts going to come off unless the whole bead comes off. I ask the guy about warping, and he said that the "way" he does it, he doesnt give the material time to warp. I watched him do it and it looked good enough for me, way better than JB.

Originally Posted by SleeperGS

I wager that my weld is stronger and more safe than JB weld; however the inclusive plate idea is a great idea. If I would have known this I would have made the plate and had it welded in. I know JB is good stuff, dont get me wrong, but nobody can convince me that JB will hold up to a MIG welder. It was welded with nice bead and there are no parts going to come off unless the whole bead comes off. I ask the guy about warping, and he said that the "way" he does it, he doesnt give the material time to warp. I watched him do it and it looked good enough for me, way better than JB.

Did he use MIG or TIG? I'm guessing TIG.

whichever it was for aluminum.....I honestly dont know, either way its welded and that better than JB weld IMO.

Tig