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Write-up: Rear Fender Rolling Introduction This write-up illustrates my approach to alleviate the fender rubbing issue Iwas experienced with my aftermarket wheels and GMPP/Koni spring and strut kit. The problem I was experience is really a result of the semi-aggressive offset (38) of my aftermarket wheels (Fittipaldi Force) and the lowering provided by the GMPP spring/strut upgrade. When I hit a dip in the road or make an aggressive turn, I’d experience significant rubbing where the tire sidewall would rub the fenderwell lip. I originally attempted to resolve this problem by replacing my Michelin Pilot Sport AS tires (245/50R17) with a smaller set of Avon M500 (235/50R17) tires. This helped eliminate 75% of the rubbing, but I still was experiencing rubbing on extreme turns and dips. As a last resort, aside from buying different wheels and tires, I decided to figure out how and where the rubbing was occurring to see if I could fix the problem. To my surprise, all the rubbing was occurring on the inner edge of the fenderwell lip that is bent into the fenderwell. This lip serves as the joint between the fenderwheel and rear quarter panel. I decided that this lip could be “folded” up to maintain its structural integrity, while providing an additional 1/4” of clearance for my wheels.
Let’s Get Started Tools Needed
* Safety Glasses and Gloves Time Approximately 45-60 minutes per side. Instructions 1. Before I decided on how much of the fenderwell lip to folder, I wanted to determine where the tires were actually rubbing. To accomplish this, I took some masking tape and stuck it to the underside of the rear fenders. I took the car for a nice ride, hitting some known areas with some dips, bumps and took some aggressive turns. Railroad tracks are also a good place to get some suspension travel. Once I had experience some good tire rubs, I returned to the garage.
2. I decided to do one side at a time. I jacked the car up properly, placed a jack stand under the car and removed the wheel. I looked at the masking tape and observed the black marks where the rubbing occurred.
3. I measured where I want to “fold” the lip up. I proceeded to put on my safety glasses and gloves took to the hacksaw. I mounted the shoplight on the spring to provide enough lighting to see what I was doing. I began carefully cutting four slits into the sheetmetal. The slits are necessary because the lip is curved and will naturally not want to bend in the opposite direction. There is an edge bend on the outer lip of the fender and I decided to stop the slits right before that edge. Since the bend in the fender would provide some rigidity at that point, it would aid in allowing the lip to fold up easier when hit with the hammer later one. In addition, the slits will not be visible when viewing the car from the side.
4. Now that the slits were cut, it was time to break out the hammer and heat gun. I used the heat gun to heat up the first section in the middle. The paint needs to get warm to almost hot (about 10-15 seconds of constant motion at about 3-4 inches). This will help make the paint more pliable to the hammer blows and the stress induced by the metal bending. ***BE CAREFUL…YOU DO NOT WANT TO BUBBLE OFF THE PAINT!!! ***
5. Now that the section is warm, begin to fold the tab up by hitting it from underneath with semi-forceful blows using the rubber coated hammer. Move along the tab section to ensure even bending. Once you get to about 80 degrees, the paint may begin to crack on the bend. I did experience some cracking, but none of the paint “flaking” off. Once you get closer to the fender, place you hand against the fender to help provide some resistance to the hammer blows.
6. Once the section is complete, repeat the same steps for the remaining sections. If needed, use the heat gun to keep the paint warm.
7. Once you are done folding up the sections, we need to fold up the corners of the outer sections that did not get folded. Again, use the heat gun to heat up the edge and use the hammer to bend it up and back.
8. Once you’re done, it should look like something like this.
9. With the hard part out of the way, take your hand and carefully rub your finger across the folded sections inside the fenderwell. Make sure that the transitions are smooth. You do not want an edge sticking out that could potentially cut into the tire. If needed, take the hammer and give the section edges a couple of whacks to even them out.
10. Since we cut into the metal, we have some bare metal that we need to seal up to prevent rust. Take a rag with the wax/grease remover and clean the slit areas and the folded tabs. If you see paint cracks on the bend, clean those too. 11. Once clean, use the touchup primer and coat the exposed metal. Let dry. 12. Take the touchup paint and cover the primer. Use the touch up paint to fill in the paint cracks. 13. On a side note, I will probably come back and spray this area with some undercoating or brush on a liberal coat of seam sealer. Since this is inside the wheelwell, it’s not exposed and no one will see it. I want to make sure I do not promote rust. 14. Take a look and admire your work. Ok..that’s enough…you’ve got another side to do!
15. Put the wheel back on. Remove the jack stand and lower the car from the jack. Torque your wheel lugs and proceed to the other side. Disclaimer: Use as your own risk. This information is provided “As-Is”. I am not responsible for any damages or liability arising from the use of this information. | |||||||||
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