"rear" wheel hub replacement question

I just bought a new rear wheel hub assembly for my 2003 GP GT (ABS OF COURSE) I can't find a single write up on a rear assembly anywhere online. Has anyone here ever changed one before? it looks easier than doing a front as there is no axle to worry about but my concern is things like torques for bolts etc... Looks like it may be time to buy a Haynes.

I think I remember someone saying the rears are harder. Somthing about them being pressed in? Something to that effect maybe?

you NEED a slide hammer. otherwise, pretty straight forward, just take the hub bolts off and such. i dont have a writeup, but a hayes should get you goin.

That was it! You are good for something! LOL

Originally Posted by minichopper6hp

you NEED a slide hammer. otherwise, pretty straight forward, just take the hub bolts off and such. i dont have a writeup, but a hayes should get you goin.

When I replaced my rear wheel bearing, I bought a good used unit from Ed Morad with the knuckle and everything. Then I didn't need to use the slide hammer. Just change the knuckle over and I was good to go.

But even still, I don't think you NEED to use a slide hammer. But it may help.

Did the deed last night. Kind of a B%*@c to get off but after checking the HAYNES manual and removing the E Brake cable as suggested it came off no problem... The only problem is I am still getting a faint rubbing noise from that side so I'm thinking it may just be that the rotor/pads need a little adjusting. I do however find that the car rides a smoother at highway speed 100 + KPH. The HAYNES manual is a great reference when it comes to doing things on this car and I even found a step by step guide to safely and easily change my spark plugs, wires and ignition coils which I had about given up on. Thanks for ur input gents.

It's probably the parking brake shoes that are rubbing.

Originally Posted by TDCRacing

That was it! You are good for something! LOL

what?! lol anyways you need a slide hammer in most cases, its seized in there. i will say though that some come out no problem, depends on the car but most likely you would need one.

Originally Posted by 03GPGTOWNER

Did the deed last night. Kind of a B%*@c to get off but after checking the HAYNES manual and removing the E Brake cable as suggested it came off no problem... The only problem is I am still getting a faint rubbing noise from that side so I'm thinking it may just be that the rotor/pads need a little adjusting. I do however find that the car rides a smoother at highway speed 100 + KPH. The HAYNES manual is a great reference when it comes to doing things on this car and I even found a step by step guide to safely and easily change my spark plugs, wires and ignition coils which I had about given up on. Thanks for ur input gents.

That is simple for you guys but how about for a women like me? Can someone help me do that wheel hub assembly? Well i can buy that manual but i cant do that. I'm from Fenway Rd Bethesda, Maryland. I hope i can hear from you guys. Cheers!

Did both rear bearings on my 05 GP and the fronts on a 2000 GMC. For the GP, one was a few years ago and one was this spring. The biggest pain is the close fitting diameter that guides/aligns the bearing/hub to the rest gets some sort of corrosion going in there and a mechanic friend told me he uses a pneumatic chisel to get them apart. Even with the pneumatic chisel they don't come apart easy. It must be due to the huge amounts of salt they use here in upstate NY.
I'm glad 03GPGTOWNER didn't have that problem. But if you live in a heavy road salt use area, look out! Even our brake rotors rust (that's a different story).
Spark plug/wire changeouts are a PITA on the back of the engine. Even with the engine tipped forward I couldn't get one out. A professional took 20 minutes working on just that plug.

Did mine a few years ago on an 02. I used a heat gun to heat up the aluminum housing the bearing was pressed into and that did the trick. Have to heat it againt to press the new one in. Not conventional, since Haynes recommends a bearing puller I think. Not too bad to do.

Did you have to warm it a bit or really heat it? Would a propane torch work? Sounds easier than the pneumatic chisel I used.

You need to warm it quite a bit (hot to the touch - about 20 min with the heat gun) to get the aluminum to expand enough to free the hub and then it will easily knock out with a hammer. You could use a propane torch I guess, just be careful and pray there are no gasoline fumes in the air...