New Car. What should I be checking?

Hi all, I just picked up a 97 GTP that I am loving. its got really high milage, 250K. Its really clean inside and out, the owner took really good care of it, but I figured I should come here and ask you guys what you think are high fail items that I need to be checking out? I see that Vacumm lines are a hot topic, so i will be checking those out tomarrow. What else do you guys know of that seems to be repeat failures that I should be checking?
Should i check boost level?
does the Bypass valve need a look?
Some way to check for boost leaks?

Thanks

Pretty much everything bro, on a car with that many miles I would start checking/ replacing pretty much everything and anything that could break or wear out.

Change oil, check the condition of the trans fluid, change the coupler in the supercharger, plugs, wires, fuel line orings, intake gaskets, check for rust in the rear strut towers, rockers, check coolant.

Change all the filters, fluids, and give the engine bay a good cleaning and check for leaks.

well, i understand the generic/general basic maintenance stuff like oil and filters, plugs, etc. I was hoping for more GTP tailored responces.
previous owner replaced the snout coupler.
I just changed the trans filter, added some lucas and added an external trans fluid cooler today.
Oil was changed at the time he listed it for sale so its still nice and golden.
I have been parking on cardboard to check for leaks and it is tight.
it appears to have very new looking spark plug wires, i would bet money they are less than 1 year old.
I just put a WAI on it today as well.

Im past all that. Now im looking for the things that "all gtp's do". Like all GTP's have vacumm leak problems. Or all GTP's have A/C compressor problems... you know, that kind of stuff. That way i can get an eyeball on the things that might not be plainly obvious just yet.
Thanks

Should have installed trans go shift kit while the trans pan was off.

Is the cooler plugged into the factory trans cooler lines? If so, those fail at the crimps going from metal to rubber.

How long ago was snout coupler changed? Was new fluid used? If not, change it, $10-20 for fluid from the dealer. Also inspect for seepage from around the snout/rotor pack area, some do not use the correct sealant there.

Replace all vacuum lines.

Change LIM gaskets with Felpro MS98014T and swap out the coolant elbows while you're in there, GM Elbows or Dorman aluminum ones with GM O rings.

Unless the vehicle has metal LIM gaskets already. Easiest way to check is to look at the side of the gasket at the front or rear of the engine, if black, its plastic and needs changing ASAP, if silver, its fine. It seems coolant elbows can almost always be an area of concern. Aluminum elbows with GM O rings might be the best short term solution. Long term concern is aluminum oxide build up.

Flush the cooling system well. My current coolant suggestion is Zerex G-05. Can be had at napa for a reasonable price. From what I have gathered, one of the best coolants available.

You can't check boost without some tool that will scan live parameters. 5-7 PSI WOT is considered normal. If less, question vac leaks or failing BBV actuator.

Fuel rail orings. They rot and leak fuel. Check the intake gaskets, if they are black they are plastic and should be replaced asap.

^ What he said about the fuel rail quick disconnect O rings, they do fail and leak. Quick test is to move the line around while leaving the rail stationary and see if it leaks. If so, it should be replaced before it becomes a fire hazard and potentially burns the car down.

Another fire concern are the valve cover gaskets. They leak, be sure to replace the grommets as well. Most likely you wont be able to purchase Felpro VC gaskets without them anyways.

Change the fuel filter if it will come off.

Inspect for rust and attempt to repair ASAP before it spreads.

Look for a large chunk of foam beneath the gas door, it is known to cause issues. Most knock it right out of the car.

Under the cowl there is a spot for a cabin air filter. It is suggested to replace the single piece of weather stripping with the updated piece that ensures water can never dump into your blower motor and then onto your passenger floorboard. Thread is called "water on floorboard" IIRC. Cheap part, well worth the investment. Might as well throw a cabin air filter in there as well.

Consider flushing the power steering fluid as well. Its often neglected even more so than transmission fluid.

Note: I will never retype all of this again. Way too much typing for something that could be found around.

why thank you. Those are very helpful replies that would have taken me months to figure out just browsing the forum. I appreciate it and I will begin on the task list immediately.

so, that whole gas line o-ring thing... is that why i frequently see grand prix's burned to a crisp in the junk yards?

...... 3/4ths of that went flying way over my head.....


Btdubbs sixth gen gps' have an issue with body rust. Rockers rust real bad (have a lot of rust through on my 98 but yet I have no major rust on my 95 lol) also check for paint bubbling around the gas nozzle/fuel door that has a habit of rusting out due to fuel overflow. Anywhere you see the paint bubbling take it in and have them grind the rust out rust proof (or if its rust through panel patch it) and repaint. That's just my observation on body issues.

if you just picked up a GP dont even look for the rust on the rockers, you dont wanna see it. another area prone to rusting is on top of the rear strut towers

Originally Posted by gtpeddie

if you just picked up a GP dont even look for the rust on the rockers, you dont wanna see it. another area prone to rusting is on top of the rear strut towers

Lol forgot about that one. I still gotta rebuild the rockers on the 98

i didn't even check mine id rather not see lol

Wait..... your car is that beautiful and you haven't even patched/refabbed the rockers yet?! I suppose though I'd be terrified to look too if my car was as sexy as yours

my car isn't rusted bad in most areas prone to rust on these cars its actually pretty clean for what it is. id just rather not go looking for rust that i dont need to see you know?

but lets not thread jack this guys thread lol

Originally Posted by gtpeddie

my car isn't rusted bad in most areas prone to rust on these cars its actually pretty clean for what it is. id just rather not go looking for rust that i dont need to see you know?

but lets not thread jack this guys thread lol

Lol good point. Anyways anything body related throw at us. Eddie knows a little more than I but we should be able to answer your questions.

Originally Posted by nukkinfuttz

why thank you. Those are very helpful replies that would have taken me months to figure out just browsing the forum. I appreciate it and I will begin on the task list immediately.

so, that whole gas line o-ring thing... is that why i frequently see grand prix's burned to a crisp in the junk yards?

Its the most likely cause.

Other oil leaks might also be the culprit.

Originally Posted by matt5112

Should have installed trans go shift kit while the trans pan was off.

I agree. I tried to find it locally, but no one stocks it, and i HAD to do the filter when I did. I could not put it off to wait on the kit. However, I am strongly concidering ordering the kit now and installing it as soon as it arrives. I can capture the fluid and re-use it so I dont have to repurchase that again anyways.

Originally Posted by matt5112

Is the cooler plugged into the factory trans cooler lines? If so, those fail at the crimps going from metal to rubber.

Yes, it is completely external cooled now, did not series it with the radiator cooler. I will inspect the metal=to=rubber crimps to see how they look.

Originally Posted by matt5112

How long ago was snout coupler changed? Was new fluid used? .

within the last 6 months. He ordered the zzp kit with the GM fluid.