L36 with 155k questions..

Hey guys i have a L36 on my 40th anniversary that i want to put on another 40th that i have and plan on keeping for a while. One 40th is gonna be fully built and the other a mild build down the road with the L36, my concern is before i swap my L36 on to my other 40th should i change all gaskets down to the heads?
I guess my concern is what is it that kills these engines gaskets or over all mileage? I want to keep it running for as long as possible and idk if the head gaskets are a concern or what i should worry about i already did the LIM and UIM gaskets but since i will have the engine out should i change all gaskets? or anything else like the timing chain?

Thanks in advance for the help...

Oil pan gasket could be changed, rear main aswell.

Headgaskets are really never an issue, no need to touch them.

well for sure oil pan and valve cover and water pump, should i change the timing chain i have put about 15k on it myself and dont know if its ever been changed.

Really? the reason why i ask is because the engine is pulled out from the other 40th went out because of the head gasket going out at about 140k

Headgaskets on these engines are super rare and typically misdiagnosed.

Actual issues for an L36 though, I would plug the coolant ports to the UIM. Read the below and see what typically occurs.
http://www.grandprixforums.net/97-03...ure-60667.html (97-03 NA L36 UIM Failure)

Plugging and opening up the turn around area are detailed in this info.
http://www.grandprixforums.net/how-mod-lim-46931.html (How to Mod a LIM)

From there I would do the timing chain and dampener, then the rear engine cover gasket and rear main seal. Once those are complete, the oil pan is next. The rear engine cover bolts are low torque and not locktited from the factory. This allows that gasket to seep and appear like an oil pan leak. Rear main is in the rear engine cover, so while it's off..do it. Oil pans are common and a pain in the vehicle. Timing chain isn't really necessary, but you are there.

After reading that I am curious to know now can a hydrolocked 3800 be functional again as I have the engine sitting in my dads work.
Keep in mind I am going by what the guy I bought it from told me. Engine has been sitting outside for about 1yr
If so or if there is a chance to start taking it apart as well lol

Mine still runs... But if it has had coolant sitting down in the cylinders for that long... Then I'd venture to say pitch it.

Your 3.8 Washington hydrolocked at one point? If so what happend and what did you do? ^^^

Yes it hydrolocked.

The upper intake manifold blew out like they all do and dumped coolant in.

The thing to do is pull the plugs, unplug the injectors and turn the key to let the engine spit as much coolant out as it can.

Then I took a blow gun and turned the crank to close up each cylinder, spray the blow gun in each cylinder to get the rest out.

Then assemble the engine with the new gaskets and upper plenum. Change the oil, flush the coolant. And drive it, change the oil again and you'll be good.

I did a UIM job on an locked motor in the Advance Auto parking lot. Since a blow gun wasn't available, we cranked it a good amount of time to blow them out..then plugs got soaked with coolant. We pulled another 2-3 times to dry them off. It started on 3-4 plugs and I kept it running long enough to dry the rest up.

Would you guys suggest giving it a try I mean the motor has been out the car for a year on the floor and if so most likely I will take it apart to clean it out and check if there is any damage and put all new gaskets.