Supplies needed:
None Listed

Method #1:

Once or twice per day, for a whole week, drip some light penetrating oil into the plastic housing around the exposed adjuster screw. Freeing up the rusted parts is preferable to method #2 below. Use a 6-point 1/4" socket and work the adjuster both directions, increasing the rotation a little at a time. Douse with more oil, including the exposed ends of the threads. Be patient. I freed up 3 out of 4 of my adjusters this way. I would recommend keeping them oiled 2x per year. If you feel anything snap, and the adjuster screw goes free, then proceed to method #2.

Method #2:

Remove the headlamp housing from the car, and remove the headlamp capsule with a 10mm hex driver. There are 2 screws. Remove the pivot stud nut from the back of the assembly. This helps with moving the bracket around.

Break open the adjuster assembly with a flat-bladed screwdriver. Remove all the broken parts and the adjuster gear, which is no more than a pot metal bevel gear. Use a Dremel to remove the seized threaded adjuster nut from the adjuster screw.

Find a suitable compression spring and an M7 fine thread nut. I could not find an M7 around here, so I used an M8 standard thread nylon locknut.

Slip the new spring over the adjuster rod, and thread the rod back through it's original hole in the back of the bracket. Install the new nut.

Adjustment is now possible by turning the new nut to move the bracket position.

Enjoy!

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