My son and I are going to install a GMPP catback on his 99 GTP. His Hoganperformance DP was recently installed so the bolts SHOULD be easy enough to remove.

What is the best and safest way to gain enough under car access to be able to install the catback?

On my SER, I swapped out the GReddy catback with the stock many times. I just jacked up the right side of the car and slid my ramps under the front and rear tires. Can this be done on a GTP w/o hurting anything? Is there a better way?

Other than spraying the rubber hangers with PB Blaster, is there any other tips to make this quick and easy?

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04 Indy SS build #972
XP, TOG's, Lightning injectors, 2.8 pulley, 105 CC springs, Wizaired, 3.29 gears, tripleedgeperformance ported blower, machined LIM, 180* tstat, RS12YC@.053, FP rewire, Alt rewire, stage 1 V boost, PRJ wires, Stage 2 IC

If you have ramps, why not drive the car up on the ramps for the front tires and just jack up the rear end and put it on jack stands. I would think that would give plenty of clearance for everything that needs to be done.

I would spray down any bolts you need to take loose with PB blaster even if they were recently installed just so you know they will come loose easy enough.

Why dont you just send me that GMPP cat back and I'll do a long term test for ya and make sure everything is good.

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Scotty Hall
Bartlesville, OK
2001 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP
It whines a lot, but I like it.

The only limitation you will ever face in life is yourself!

When i installed mine i just jacked up the rear and put it on jackstands while the ebrake was on. Installed it in about 20 to 30 min. Like Scotty said though let it cool down and pblaster the bolts and let soak. Other than that its all cake work.

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1999 Grand Prix GTP Black
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2172058

just curious why you had the ebrake on since the rear wheels were in the air? I too just jacked up the back, but the side would work also depends on if you like sliding on the ground or not

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Steve
'97 GTP VS cam, ZZP PCM, and not much else yet

Thanks guys. I dont like (trust) jack stands, however I realize it is just a phobia of mine. I could back up my ramps but would still have to slide under the car to get to the resonator to DP bolts. However, it may be worth giving the rear ramps a shot versus lifting the side up.

Oh and I'm wondering about the ebrake too.

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04 Indy SS build #972
XP, TOG's, Lightning injectors, 2.8 pulley, 105 CC springs, Wizaired, 3.29 gears, tripleedgeperformance ported blower, machined LIM, 180* tstat, RS12YC@.053, FP rewire, Alt rewire, stage 1 V boost, PRJ wires, Stage 2 IC

Ramps work pretty well, but sometimes they just don't get the car high enough.

I did Alex's car with jackstands, and wheel chalks. Whatevery you do, take every possible safety caution you can. Block both front wheels and set your e-brake if you use ramps. you simply can't be careful enough.

And FWIW, WD-40 actually works better on the rubber isolators.....it's just got a little more "slick" to it if ya know what I mean. Take it down from the back to the front.....pop the mufflers loose, then mid way, and finally the front hanger. Make sure Drew holds the mufflers up obviously...it makes it a little easier to handle...then reverse it to put it back on. I think I did it in like 30 minutes even with the exhaust hot from his trip up from STL.

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GreenBastardPerformance2000 GTP Coupe (the green bastard)
XP, Pacesetters, LS1 TB & MAF,MSD System, P&P LIM, P&P GenV w/ 3.2, 3.0, 2.8, Devil'sOwn Injected 100% Methanol,PowerTuned, TripleEdge Trans w/3.29's
12.92 @ 105mph