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CV Shaft Rebuild/Replace [*]

This is a discussion on CV Shaft Rebuild/Replace [*] within the How To Write-Ups forums, part of the How To Write-Ups / Parts Best Buys category; Rebuilding a Pontiac Grand Prix Constant Velocity (CV) Shaft has now been added to the "How To" and can be ...


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axle, constant velocity, cv boots, cv shaft, fix, repair

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Old 12-13-2007, 09:17 PM   #1
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Default CV Shaft Rebuild/Replace [*]

Rebuilding a Pontiac Grand Prix Constant Velocity (CV) Shaft has now been added to the "How To" and can be found here
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Old 12-13-2007, 10:00 PM   #2
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Now this is some awesome stuff. Needs to be stickied for sure. Thank you so much Reptile for this contribution.
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Old 12-15-2007, 04:57 PM   #3
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after all the research the vendors have done, and all the havoc people have had with reman'd axles. i would not suggest them to anyone. your average autozone or napa axle that has been rebuilt will not handle the abuse most people do to their cars on the street let alone track passes.
i would suggest used OEM axles in good shape from Ed morad/junkyard or brand new ones. Napa does offer brand new ones with a great warranty.
these seem to hold up well to the power that was put down with my old turbo setup(18psi daily driven). while that is not a standard by any means, the remans would not hold up that kind of HP whats so ever


there is a few companys now offering "built ones". if looking into upgrading your axles make sure whatever company it is uses quality boots and clamps that are better then OEM.
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Old 12-15-2007, 08:53 PM   #4
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I recommend going to Oreilly's Auto Parts for the CV shaft if you are wanting to go with a stock replacement. For the Grand Prix they are about $80.00 to $90.00 depending on which side. This is for New, not Remanufactured CV shafts made by A1 Cardone. There is a 5.00 core when you buy the new shafts.

Part Numbers

Left Side (drivers) .................................................. ..66-1255

Right Side (Passengers) non-supercharged................66-1250

Right Side (passengers) supercharged.......................66-1256

Remans run about 10.00 less, but come with a 50.00 core charge, so get the new.....

I did a writeup as well on CV shafts and can be found here...

CV Shaft Replacement

If you have 650.00 laying around you can get these....

South Florida Pulley Headquarters - Your source for supercharged performance products!

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Old 12-16-2007, 09:07 AM   #5
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The main problem that I have seen with the Napa, O'reilly, etc. shafts is boot failure. The material they use ends up tearing after a few miles...and once you start slinging grease it's not going to take very long. If you catch it in time it's not a big deal to rebuild, but once the joints go dry your hosed.
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Old 12-16-2007, 12:20 PM   #6
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Reptile, since you have broke down the CV shaft as you have, is there anyway to beef it up. Are there any parts and what have ya that you can rebuild with that would make the axle stronger or better?
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Old 12-16-2007, 12:58 PM   #7
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The ones on the GTP's are about as strong as you can make them. Really, the only issue is torn boots which slings all the grease out. IF you catch it when they first start doing it and there is no contamination in them, then putting a new boot on will be OK. The problem with the aftermarket reman ones, is when someone let's them get so bad that the bearings go out, they are rebuilt with substandard parts. The metal in them isn't as good or they might have missed something, since they only replace what needs to be replaced sometimes.

The bottom line is proper maintenance on a car is your best friend. It keeps you on top of things, and you can catch something quickly before it gets too bad.

Keep in mind though, that these joints are vented, and that some grease may normally come out every now and then. It's when you start seeing a substantial amount is when you start to dig deeper.
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Old 12-16-2007, 10:29 PM   #8
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I have replaced the boot on the drivers side axle. I torn the boot on the passenger and got lazy and bought a reman from advancedautoparts. The damn thing was to short. The next one was wrong too. Got my money back and bought a napa. Believe it or not, I have had not problems with it for over 2 years now. It was a new one. Ran the times in my sig with it. It was been through a few 1.7x 60's...


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Old 12-16-2007, 11:37 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reptile View Post
The ones on the GTP's are about as strong as you can make them. Really, the only issue is torn boots which slings all the grease out. IF you catch it when they first start doing it and there is no contamination in them, then putting a new boot on will be OK. The problem with the aftermarket reman ones, is when someone let's them get so bad that the bearings go out, they are rebuilt with substandard parts. The metal in them isn't as good or they might have missed something, since they only replace what needs to be replaced sometimes.

The bottom line is proper maintenance on a car is your best friend. It keeps you on top of things, and you can catch something quickly before it gets too bad.

Keep in mind though, that these joints are vented, and that some grease may normally come out every now and then. It's when you start seeing a substantial amount is when you start to dig deeper.

I had no idea the things were vented. Thanks for the info.
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Old 12-20-2007, 11:59 AM   #10
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Default Good stuff

Quote:
Originally Posted by Reptile View Post
The main problem that I have seen with the Napa, O'reilly, etc. shafts is boot failure. The material they use ends up tearing after a few miles...and once you start slinging grease it's not going to take very long. If you catch it in time it's not a big deal to rebuild, but once the joints go dry your hosed.
True that. I've replaced well...about 7 of them all told - only paid for the 1st set, though. (the other plus with going to O'Reilly - lifetime warranty/replacement). The boots are ridiculously thin, and if you have a lowered car - there seems to be a propensity towards premature failure.

Wow...lookee there...I'm a linguistics gymnast.

Anyway - Brian's write-up is top-notch - as is he. But like he said - it is NOT something to rush through or attempt if you aren't at least a 6 on the 1-10 scale of mechanical aptitude.

-Swash
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