I know how to get it out that's easy but how do you put the new one back in the hole??? I dont see any space to let me do it.

If you have room to knock it out, you should have room to get the new one started. At least I would think so.

But once you get it started, one thing you can do is use a lug nut to tighten down on the stud and that will pull it through. I normally just hammer on mine from the back side obviously.

I think depending on year there is a small hole you can knock one thru.

I had to grind down the head of the new one a little to get it in or if you go to your local auto parts store some of them have new studs that are just slightly shorter that you can get in without any modifications the little bit of shortened length is not enough to be a problem. I picked up the shortened one at my local autozone.

^^^ Yeah i saw that somewhere, you can get shorter studs to just pop in their and it doesnt affect anything.

Yea i have one i had to replace 2 at once 1st i used a full length we had to grind down one side to get it in it was a *****. The other one we tried a shortened one an it was really easy. If you can get one of those i would suggest it.

How do you get the stock studs out? I broke one and gave up tryin to get it off.

I think we just hammered mine out. if it wont go try a little heat or some wd40 or pb blaster an maybe a little more force.

yeah just hammer it out it's not bad.

Any part numbers or specs on the shorter wheel stud?

I got mine from Advance Auto. Im guessin the replacements are shorter because I gave him my year and make and thats what I got.

Sorry i don't have a # it was over a year ago i picked mine up at autozone they gave me the option of reg or the shortened one. So your local autoparts store ought to be able to get it for you or atleast get you a #.

The thing I noticed about the shorter studs was that the stock stud has a nipple of sorts on the end that is not threaded, approx 3/16-1/4 inch long. The shorter stud is just sans the unthreaded part, so you actually still have the same amount of threads.

I had a world of trouble with the new replacement Timken hub assembly I put on the car. I chewed up a stud on it and hammered one out of my old hub. The stock stud was WAY smaller in diameter on the splined part that actually presses into the hub. It was just loose in the hole of the new hub. After taking the chewed up stud to three different parts stores and having them all hand me a stock stud, I ended up convincing the guy at Autozone to let me dig through their bins and I finally found one that fit. I had to grind a flat spot on the head to sneak it in and then ended up having to drive it back out. I have F-body brakes and the holes on the rotor ride right up very close to the studs. The splined part of my new stud was longer and therefore stuck out some on the front which wouldn't let my rotor go on all the way. After grinding a flat spot on that too, it finally went back together. Lots of cursing in the garage that day.

Here's a few pictures I took at the time.
New hub's stud on the left - Stock stud on the right


Flat spot ground into the head to sneak it in


How close my rotor's are to the studs


Flat spot ground on the end of the shoulder for the rotor to go over it. I only did the end of the shoulder, the splines to go all the way around still in the hole of the hub.