There making noise because i need new ones. I know that and yes they are long over due! The other concern I am having is the noise/sound either goes away or changes when I turn the wheels while driving.Now if i am thinking about this correctly that should not happen enless i have a bad wheel bearing or something to where there would be play in the wheel. After i did my tranny and cam swap,the brakes started wearing real bad around the outside of the rotor. That may be because of the pad comming apart or....another problem that im trying to figure out....so thats what im wondering, if there is another problem.



I checked the hub nut last night and everything was tight. Another thing is it sounds like the brakes on that wheel are always engauged. I can hear them scraping going down the road all the time. But again if im thinking about this right there should be no play between the brake disk and the brake caliper once the wheel and everything is bolted on correct? So are they making different sounds when im moving and i turn the wheel???? I just dont want to mess up a brand new set of rotors and pads due to another problem. Thanks fellas





You can see here that the inner part of the rotor has about a half of an inch left that looks ok. Now the outer as you can see is very worn. Again im just making sure i dont have a problem i dont know about.

sounds like you have a hanging caliper (did you put lube on the bolts, and slides?)

X2. It looks to me like the brakes are metal on metal. Fix it ASAP, or your brakes will explode before too long.

Well, The only bolts I took out were the ones that hold the caliper AND the bracket onto the hub. There were two bolts that I took out and that was it. I disasembled everything yesterday and then reasembled and it didnt seem to change everything. And FYI that is the first thing i checked to see if the caliper bolts were tight. And the reason why is that to me seemed like the only thing that could cause that sound to differ when i turned my wheels as i am going down the road. any other ideas fellas? The brakes rub all the time....now the pad is almost gone but they should only come in contact with the rotor when i apply the brakes coorect? no matter how worn they are.



And yes i know if the rotor gets too worn the rotor could shatter. Gotta wait till another payday or so unless you wanna give me the 300 bucks lol

Your pads are the problem. They're toast, no reason to be in a big hurry about replacing them now since you've already screwed your rotors to hell also.

You sure man? Not to second guess you,you've never mis-led me,but why would they always drag even when not applying the brakes? I hope you are right because I dont feel like messing with anything else. Without the dragging and the different noises when turning I too would have guessed they were the pads. And yeah threr toast for sure lol....Got a set of e-lines to be on the way soon.And i dont want any problems to happen when thre on for something to mess them up. thats the purpose of this thread.

To me, or at least from what I can tell in the pics, it looks like your pads are not only rubbing the rotor constantly like you said but they also seem to be tearing into the rotor rather than just making smooth contact.

I know a long while back when I had my red GTP I had horrible brake pads that were worn down and started rubbing metal to metal like yours appear to be doing, and while driving down the road I could here them scrapping and squeaking together even if I was'nt touching the brake. I've also seen this be the case on many other cars since then.

You give me hope LOL. While i was doing the swap or after i did the swap i should say and replacing the cv on that side i got an abs ligh. still not sure if it's something i missed plugging back in or it actually is a bad wheel bearing. that was my main concern.

when the pads were put on I bet no lube was used, that causes the caliper to not be able to slide, I have fixed many cars like that from people doing half the job

I will second that. Make sure that the caliper will go back in, and that the pads are free in the bracket, but not too loose or they will rattle. Also make sure that the caliper slides are free. Even if they move it is still a good idea to take it apart, clean it up, and re-lube. Permatex makes a great lube that you can get almost anywhere.

ok so it's nothing some high temp lithum grease wont fix then? Im just making sure that i wont have to buy any extra parts. Ill be sure to regrease and put everything back corrctly since aperantly the last owner didnt. or whoever did the brakes last.

looking at the rotors, do pads and rotors, and a seal kit for the caliper

Pads and rotors were already planned for sure.Ther is no way these can be turned anyway. Now what is this Seal kit you speak of lol? Never heard of a seal kit for calipers before. Is it the rubber shock boot type thing that goes over where the caliper slides back and forth? Thanks for all the help.I know a good bit on how to work on the brake system on a car but it looks like there are some things i didnt.

the piston seal, then there are little o rings at the pins

so is this what i need? And how do i install it?

Shoot I thought i pasted a link with that question. I looked at oreillys and i did not see what you were talking about as far as the seals go. Do you think you could possibly get me a link?


I just ordered my new E-line rotors and pads and they should be here on the 30th

get a disc brake hardware kit should do all you need, I wouldn't worry about the piston seal so much as the pin o rings