I think I paid $10 qt, I had in store credit so I decided to splurge and use it since I didn't need anything else.

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1997 Black GTP 72k (4dr), 3.5 Pulley, Wbody Downpipe, Wbody Shift kit (street), DHP 1.0, NGK TR55ix Spark Plugs, GMP Handling kit, KYB AGX Struts, AT Italia Inox 235x50x18 Bfgoodrich KDWS, GMPP Springs, Corvette C5 Calipers, Blazertech 3200, DHP Powertuner (97-03), Built Trans, Torsen Diff

Trannyman

The 2nd drum bushings were giving me big time issues. The 1 side when in no problems, but the 2nd bushing seemed to be slightly to big. I spent almost 45 minutes trying to get it in. I put the bushing in the freezer and took even the torch to heat up the drum slightly so it was almost to warm to handle by hand. The bushing kept wanting to go in crooked, and I eventually got it in. The bushing was marred in a spot, and it a slight wave as if the bushing was to big and thats was why it was giving me issues.





I had to put one of my bushing drivers inside the bushing to prevent it from getting deformed. Then I took a big metal bushing driver and put it over the one pictured to actually get it to go in.



My battle damage fighting with the bushing That bushing owned me.





You think I should just wait until Monday and buy another set of bushings from transtar (unless they sell individually), or should I not even bother. IF your curious as to why the bushing is not as shiny as the other one, I assembled it onto the other piece and spun it to make sure it fit fine as well as not making any weird sounds when I spun it. I figure the bushing is some type of copper/tri metal composition that is softer than the steel that rubs against it. If there were any high spots or slight bumps in the bushing, they would get pushed down and shouldn't grind or fall apart. That is assumption, but what do I know.

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1997 Black GTP 72k (4dr), 3.5 Pulley, Wbody Downpipe, Wbody Shift kit (street), DHP 1.0, NGK TR55ix Spark Plugs, GMP Handling kit, KYB AGX Struts, AT Italia Inox 235x50x18 Bfgoodrich KDWS, GMPP Springs, Corvette C5 Calipers, Blazertech 3200, DHP Powertuner (97-03), Built Trans, Torsen Diff

Not sure what to tell you on the Z-pack as I have never used one but you should be able to send an email right to Raybestos and get install instructions if you cant find them on their website. The wave plate is the first plate -wavy by name and physical appearance that goes in a stock clutch stackup. The backing plate is the one that goes against the snap ring and is the thickest plate in a stock setup. For second clutch if you are adding thicker steels I prefer to put them in the middle of the clutch pack to help dissapate heat better since you have thick plates on both ends and all thin in the middle. Two thicker steels should put you right on the mark and you dont need much clearance at all in this clutch pack. For the bushing on the drum I would definately replace it and yes they are sold seperately. I have plenty of singles if you need one or cant get it from your supplier. That is probably the worst bushing in the whole trans to install and I sometimes go through a few as they dont like to start square.

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www.TripleEdgePerformance.com
4T65E Transmission Info
Voted GPF.net Community Hero

Trannyman

Do you recommend using green scotchbrite on the accumulator housing assembly. I forgot where I might have read this but supposedly it helps the pistons seals to stay lubed. Would you also recommend the same thing done to the 2-1 manual servo housing,3-4 accumulator housing, as well as the forward and reverse pistons areas.

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1997 Black GTP 72k (4dr), 3.5 Pulley, Wbody Downpipe, Wbody Shift kit (street), DHP 1.0, NGK TR55ix Spark Plugs, GMP Handling kit, KYB AGX Struts, AT Italia Inox 235x50x18 Bfgoodrich KDWS, GMPP Springs, Corvette C5 Calipers, Blazertech 3200, DHP Powertuner (97-03), Built Trans, Torsen Diff

Now theres a guy that Im going to be great friends with, using Amsoil ATF. But Ive learned something from Trannyman though. Amsoil ATF comes in around a low 20 weight fluid. Trannyman uses a thicker fluid that I was not aware that you could use in a transmission. So if I dont end up getting my fluid from him, then I'll get my hands on some 30 weight Amsoil Synthetic ATF. They also sell 40 and 50 weight tranny fluids, but I would think those would be too thick for all but industrial type applications.

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Scotty Hall
Bartlesville, OK
2001 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP
It whines a lot, but I like it.

The only limitation you will ever face in life is yourself!

So which of these fluids are you going to use if you don't use trannyman's

AMSOIL Synthetic Transmission Fluid

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1997 Black GTP 72k (4dr), 3.5 Pulley, Wbody Downpipe, Wbody Shift kit (street), DHP 1.0, NGK TR55ix Spark Plugs, GMP Handling kit, KYB AGX Struts, AT Italia Inox 235x50x18 Bfgoodrich KDWS, GMPP Springs, Corvette C5 Calipers, Blazertech 3200, DHP Powertuner (97-03), Built Trans, Torsen Diff

Scotchbrite to all accumulator bores is a good idea as this gives the fluid a place to retain and prevent the seal from sticking in the bore which can cause the piston to cock and wear the pin and can also bind and cause odd shift behavior. Dont use it where lip seals go as it may tear the seal up over time. This was a bulletin in the aftermarket world a long time ago that was noted to do in most fwd GM and Ford transmissions.

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www.TripleEdgePerformance.com
4T65E Transmission Info
Voted GPF.net Community Hero

I was thinking of using this one:

AMSOIL - Synthetic Powershift Transmission Fluid SAE 30 (CTJ)

The problem with it is that I do not believe it has any friction modifiers in it. If that is the case, it could provide a bit harsher shifts than I would like and Im not sure if it would be good for the transmission. However, if I can tone that aspect of it down I think it would work well.

Ive used this before (not in the GP):

AMSOIL - Super Shift® Racing Transmission Fluid (ART)

But I used it in a mixture with regular Amsoil ATF. Ive still got some research to do but I think the ISO 30 fluid would work. Amsoil makes a friction modifier, but it is intended for gear lubes, so Im not sure how well it would mix with or work with ATF. It has been for these reasons that I have given more weight to using Trannymans mix, but I hate to not use a synthetic fluid as I like the reduction in temps it gives. We'll have to see. Im a ways from that decision point yet.

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Scotty Hall
Bartlesville, OK
2001 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP
It whines a lot, but I like it.

The only limitation you will ever face in life is yourself!

Transtec View on Scotchbrite


Rubber Accumulator Seals
The lathe (square) cut accumulator seals in this kit are TransTec’s aftermarket design seals. The
dimensions are slightly different, and the material is more abrasion-resistant than the OEM seals. The
design of these seals was improved because of occasional wear problems with the OEM seals. The
transmissions most affected are the 4T60/E and AXOD, due in part to the design of these accumulators.
The following steps should be taken on every overhaul to prevent premature seal wear:
1) Always rinse the case to remove any soap film left from the parts washer. The soap acts as an
abrasive that causes seal wear.
2) Always resurface the accumulator bores with Scotch Brite®. A smooth bore has no place to hold
oil for lubrication. Without lubrication, seals wear out prematurely. (Scotch Brite is available through
parts stores, body shop suppliers, or tool distributors).
3) Always check the accumulator piston-to-pin fit, especially on the aluminum pistons in the 4T60/E.
Any wear here will cause the piston to wobble in the bore and wear out the seal.


Source: http://www.transtec.com/tech_insert/IS-4T65E-5.pdf

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1997 Black GTP 72k (4dr), 3.5 Pulley, Wbody Downpipe, Wbody Shift kit (street), DHP 1.0, NGK TR55ix Spark Plugs, GMP Handling kit, KYB AGX Struts, AT Italia Inox 235x50x18 Bfgoodrich KDWS, GMPP Springs, Corvette C5 Calipers, Blazertech 3200, DHP Powertuner (97-03), Built Trans, Torsen Diff

Trannyman

I have a few more questions

Is the o-ring that goes on the input shaft by the torque converter green

I some how manage to strip one of the bolts that holds the pressure sensor to the valve body. Its the silver looking bolt thats missing that I believe is suppose to be torqued to 70 in lbs ( I got up to around 50 in lbs or so). I have no idea why that one stripped, considering all the other ones went in no problem. Do you think I should tap that hole and move up from a 6mm to a 7mm bolt? Oh yeah, I used a torque wrench and even double checked it with my spare.



Here is my not so pretty diff squirter. It was flowing a little to much so I had to crimp the tube a bit more to restrict some of the flow. I took a garden hose and turned the water on low and the picture shows the results. That was my 3rd tube I constructed since it was a pain to get the flow just right without restricitng the main feed. Hopefully tomorrow evening after work I can get the trans installed and take it for a test run (will be really late). Or worse case senario, it will be done Wednesday as long as theirs no more issues.





I had to shim my input input/forward drum .020 (sonnax shim)




My new Toy

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1997 Black GTP 72k (4dr), 3.5 Pulley, Wbody Downpipe, Wbody Shift kit (street), DHP 1.0, NGK TR55ix Spark Plugs, GMP Handling kit, KYB AGX Struts, AT Italia Inox 235x50x18 Bfgoodrich KDWS, GMPP Springs, Corvette C5 Calipers, Blazertech 3200, DHP Powertuner (97-03), Built Trans, Torsen Diff