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This is a discussion on best first mods to do within the 3.8L V6 Supercharged (L67)(L32) forums, part of the W Body Tech category; what does everyone think should be the very first mods to do to a stock gtp ???? i started with ...
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| | #1 |
| GT Level Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Milpitas , Ca.
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iTrader: (0) ![]() | what does everyone think should be the very first mods to do to a stock gtp ???? i started with a 3" down pipe and a u bend delete also plugs w/ 55 gape and 180* stat . next on my list is air intake (just trying to figure out which 1 to get) . then the rest of the exhaust . does this sound about the right first steps ?? |
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| | #2 |
| GT Level Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Topeka, KS
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iTrader: (1) ![]() | Thats a good start. Next thing i would do is get a tuned PCM made by DHP or Overkill. Both are great. Then get you an intake that makes you car breath. Heres a few links for making your own. Not hard to do at all, and will save you tons of money. How to - Cold Air intake http://tacgp.clubgp.com/custom_mods/...ake/index.html Tools Hope that helps. Last 2 are my fav. |
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| | #3 |
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iTrader: (0) ![]() | The u bend delete and colder plugs are the cheapest and easiest first mods you can do.. I would follow those up with and intake and downpipe, then you will be ready for the 3.4 pulley and dhp pcm. |
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| | #5 |
| GT Level Member | i started with a pcm. ill be doing an intake, downpipe, colder plugs, colder thermo, pulley and tune all within a few days of each other. or you could just go with the stock and ground down snout and 2.55 pulley..
__________________ zzp1.0, k&n cai, c.c. plog, 1.9 RR's , 105#'s, 3in o/r dp, res delete, 104's, 8.5mm wires, 180* thermo, 3.4, AEM wideband, TOGs and borla catback on the garage floor. |
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| | #6 |
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iTrader: (9) ![]() | my car liked the 3.25 better than the 3.4 for some reason.... but you first mods are a step in the right direction. I would add the tune, then the pulley.
__________________ 2001 GTP street car- GT45 turbo,Stage 4 Intense turbo cam,FMIC,150 wet, double roller timing chain, Diamond forged coated pistons 8:0:1, Diamond piston rings, cryoed L32 connecting rods, Cryoed crank, Clevite77 main bearings, Clevite77 cam bearings, Clevite77 L32 rod bearings, ARP Everything, Intense/meizere true billet Flexplate, Custom UIM, Intense oil pressure kit, Cometic 4 layer head gaskets, OE-R lifters, Cryoed L67 block, ATI turbo dampner, MUCH MORE, 6 more to choose from |
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| | #7 | |
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iTrader: (1) ![]() | Quote:
Just my 2 cents. -Ryan | |
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| | #8 |
| GT Level Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Milpitas , Ca.
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iTrader: (0) ![]() | yea i think i will probably just go to a 3.4 for now but that is after i get the pc and intake . the car has roughly 75k so i would like this engine to last me a little bit |
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| | #9 |
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iTrader: (8) ![]() | FWI FTW! I started modding mine at 68k, and it's got 101k on it now. Knock on wood, no major mechanical failures.
__________________ GreenBastardPerformance2000 GTP Coupe (the green bastard) XP, Pacesetters, LS1 TB & MAF,MSD System, P&P LIM, P&P GenV w/ 3.2, 3.0, 2.8, Devil'sOwn Injected 100% Methanol,PowerTuned, TripleEdge Trans w/3.29's 12.92 @ 105mph |
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| | #10 |
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iTrader: (3) ![]() | Best upgrade on a starting stock build for the track is better TIRES!!!! Well there are other things you can do, but tires will get you off the line faster and really help out. The stock Goodyears arent very good in the traction depertment or on 20mph kicks with a few bolt-ons so better tires are a very good upgrade right off the bat. Exhaust is a good start also, getting rid of the restrictive stock downpipe really helps chop down KR. One thing you should really do before anything else is make sure the engine is sound. Make sure there are no vacuum leaks, commonly found from bad lower intake gaskets, bad supercharger and throttle body gaskets. Replace the fuel filter if history is unknown, check ignition wires and coil terminals for the wires so they arent corroded. Colder spark plugs are definately a good idea, especially if you are dropping pulley size. A good tune will really help you out as well. Higher shift points and firmer shift settings are good for a few tenths off your time at the track.
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