This is a discussion on How to Change Plugs within the 3.8L V6 Naturaly Aspirated (L36)(L26) forums, part of the Engine category; It might be posted on here somewhere. And maybe I missed it in the How To's but did not see ...
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#1
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| It might be posted on here somewhere. And maybe I missed it in the How To's but did not see one. How do I change the back 3 plugs? I have not started, but heard different things to do and wanted opinions on what is the easiest and safest. Thanks Mainecrab |
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#2
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| You will probably get a variety of answers. But the most common way is to remove the upper motor mounts and rock the motor forward. There is an eyelet on the bottom of the passenger side motor mount and you can rock the motor forward and then run the bolt through the motor mount bracket and that eyelet and that will hold the motor in the rocked forward position and give you a bit more access to the back side of the engine. Hope that helps out. Those plug wire boots can be tough to get off sometimes, so just remember twist and pull and keep doing so until it comes off. It may fight you a bit but they will come off.
__________________ Scotty Hall 2001 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP It whines a lot, but I like it. The only place success comes before work is in the dictionary. Great spirits have always found violent opposition from mediocre minds. |
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#4
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| Just don't give up. The first time you do those back three, cursing and throwing things will likely be on your mind. I just put in my Brisk plugs and it took me about 15 minutes to do all 6. I don't have the round black alternator bracket or the engine brackets installed which makes doing this easier. Without these items removed do like Scotty said and consider rotating the engine forward for easier access. You can remove the two dogbones, push the car forward and set the e-brake, thus rotating the engine forward. The other thing is to make sure you put a thin coating of dielectric tune-up grease on the inside of the spark plug boots, before reinstalling. It's makes removal the next time ssoooo much easier.
__________________ 04 Indy SS build #972 GPS Cam 1, TOG's, Tripleedgeperformance.com transmission-ported blower-build and tuning, PRJ wires, PRJ Rails, Stage 2 IC. |
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#5
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| Thanks for the suggestions. Yeah I have been in tight spots on changing plugs, on my 2.3 Ranger it has 8 plugs and and they were a ***** to get to, but I was able to with some sockets and joints |
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#6
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| The hard part will be twisting and tugging on the plugs boots to get them to break loose. I used a 3 inch extension on plug 4 and 6 and a 1 in extension on #2. Having had headers for a while, I don't remember what I used when the stock mani was on there. I know the O2 sensor can get in the way a little, with headers that's not the case.
__________________ 04 Indy SS build #972 GPS Cam 1, TOG's, Tripleedgeperformance.com transmission-ported blower-build and tuning, PRJ wires, PRJ Rails, Stage 2 IC. |
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#9
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| Don't forget a dab of anti-seize on the threads of the plugs. You'll thank me.
__________________ GreenBastardPerformance2000 GTP Coupe (the green bastard) XP, Pacesetters, LS1 TB & MAF,MSD System, P&P LIM, P&P GenV w/ 3.2, 3.0, 2.8, Devil'sOwn Injected 100% Methanol,PowerTuned, TripleEdge Trans w/3.29's 12.92 @ 105mph |
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#11
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Reptile, I thought anti-seize was only needed with aluminum heads. I never use that stuff on my plugs. Of course my plugs come out quite often.
__________________ 04 Indy SS build #972 GPS Cam 1, TOG's, Tripleedgeperformance.com transmission-ported blower-build and tuning, PRJ wires, PRJ Rails, Stage 2 IC. |
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#12
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| I used the anti-seize stuff anyways. Luckily wasnt too hard to get the old ones out, at least the part of actually loosening them. Getting to the back, is another story. But the pushing the engine forward did work. Was actually the fastest plug job I ever did. Which is fast to me considering I havent done much at all to this car. |
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#13
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__________________ GreenBastardPerformance2000 GTP Coupe (the green bastard) XP, Pacesetters, LS1 TB & MAF,MSD System, P&P LIM, P&P GenV w/ 3.2, 3.0, 2.8, Devil'sOwn Injected 100% Methanol,PowerTuned, TripleEdge Trans w/3.29's 12.92 @ 105mph |
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#15
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| I used the NGK TR55 Split V Copper. There were copper plugs coming out so I didnt think it would hurt to put them back. Guy at the counter told me iridium is OEM. The plugs that came out were Delco Copper and with only 69 thousand miles when I got the car I doubt they had been changed. |
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#16
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__________________ Steve '97 GTP VS cam, ZZP PCM, and not much else yet |
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#18
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| There's nothing wrong with the plugs you put in if they run fine in the engine. GM simply started using platinum plugs purely for the longevity.
__________________ GreenBastardPerformance2000 GTP Coupe (the green bastard) XP, Pacesetters, LS1 TB & MAF,MSD System, P&P LIM, P&P GenV w/ 3.2, 3.0, 2.8, Devil'sOwn Injected 100% Methanol,PowerTuned, TripleEdge Trans w/3.29's 12.92 @ 105mph |
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