This guy is claiming 12 grand in damage due to an install done at circuit city
YouTube - VTECnical's Honda Civic after Circuit City Install
he claims the wiring is a fire hazzard, but it was soldered (how does he think the "correct" harness is installed?) now they dropping of the tweeters into the dash is a bit lacking, but cutting and splicing is not abnormal in a shop (yeah he should have used the plug harness, because they help resale when you want to put the old unit back, but they do not make a job safer (I don't use them on my own cars as it's not going back stock anyway)

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Steve
'97 GTP VS cam, ZZP PCM, and not much else yet

Well i guess I have a fire hazard in my GP then, not just the engine now When I added my aftermarket Pioneer 6000 HU, I used the scyotche* after market wiring adaptor kit to splice into the Kenwood's HU's wiring harness and I sodered and electrical taped it up. Does that mean mine is unsafe? NOT!!!

I have been doing the same thing since I had my old 94 Tbird with aftermarket wiring harnesses, back in the day I only did a splice and the wires were just wrapped around the other wiring. And then electrical taped for protection. And I had that car for 8 years with no fires, and then my 98 GP GT I had the same thing for 5 years and nothing. And now with the GTX I took the time and actually sodered the wires properly and still used electrical tape to cover that.

A picture of my Pioneer HU's wiring harness sodered to my scyotche* wiring adaptor harness.



I really think someone is trying to pull over a fast one. Whether it be Honda or the idiot owner. I do think CC could have done a bit better job, but they are suppose to add the aftermarket wiring harness to avoid such hassels *shrugs* I really DOUBT he will get $12k out of that mess, so he wont be paying off his new car anytime soon

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James Shafer 2003 GP GTX St. Louis MO
1.9 Modified Rockers, TOGs, 180 Tstat, PRJ 10.4 Wires, P/P Gen 3, SLP Ram Air Hood/Wizaired CAI, Gen 1 Spoiler, 3.5 Pulley, 18" TSW Mondellos w/ AGX Struts, SSC Gen II Springs

Fist off the pic above is the wrong way to "twist" the wire :-p
( thats a lot of soder on that )

2nd.
Ciruit sells wiring harness kits which is PLUG and PLAY for factory harnesses and the other end to the radio( called smart harness). In 98% of the time there is no need to splice into the harness. IF the kit is not available they can order it or with customer ok they will splice into the harness but they charge to do it.

I want to open thta harness up and see how the wires were done. If they were sodered right and wrapped with tape there is no issue.

Fire hazard. LOL. Take your car to a dealership they will do the same thing if there is a problem with the wiring, that or they will use BUTT CONNECTORS.

3rd. Having to "make room" for a radio. happens on a lot of cars.
Grand prixs, regals, monte, impalas. you have to break off the plastic part in the back. There are very few radios out that are short enough to clear it.

I used to supervise the roadshop at circuit. Yes there were some bad installs. But the only way that would be a fire hazard if they did not soder and over time the wire worked lose, came out of the electrical tape and found its way to a ground. ( He used stock radio harness so it is fused) so this is very very unlikely. If it did i would be back at honda because the fuse panel did not do its job.

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We can’t help ourselves. We see a line, we want to cross it. Maybe it’s the thrill for trading the familiar for the unfamliliar. A personal dare. The only problem is once you’ve crossed it’s almost impossible to go back. But if you do manage to make it back across that line you find safety in numbers.

Well i was never educated in the "twist" of wiring, its just what I had done throughout my years of messing with wiring If you want to instruct me on how to do it in the future? Please PM me and I will be more than willing to listen and learn

As for the soder, yes its a bit more than I would have liked, but I wanted to make sure all the exposed wiring was covered. A little over anal that way I suppose, plus my soder gun is only those $5 cheapies and doesnt allow for percision sodering But it serves the purpose and when covered in electrical tape, no one will see it tucked in behind the HU

But I am serious about the instruction thing though I look forward to your PM.

Thanks

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James Shafer 2003 GP GTX St. Louis MO
1.9 Modified Rockers, TOGs, 180 Tstat, PRJ 10.4 Wires, P/P Gen 3, SLP Ram Air Hood/Wizaired CAI, Gen 1 Spoiler, 3.5 Pulley, 18" TSW Mondellos w/ AGX Struts, SSC Gen II Springs

James, there is really no wrong way to twist wire, unless you do a horrible job at it. There is a bout 10 different ways I can think of to connect the wires together before the solder goes on so saying thats wrong is like saying you are breathing wrong. While yours may not be the way most goes about it, it isn't coming apart because of the solder so you are fine.

The solder is fine, it is actually soaked through the wire good, and every exposed bit has been covered. The solder isn't just clumped up on top of the wire so its okay.

-Steven-

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Steven Oliver
2004 GTP comp-g WS6. Gator and suede all around interior.
Advanced MECP certified installer, custom upholsterer.

Solder and shrink tube... it's the only way I roll. haha

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Master Certified Auto Glass Technician
Kansas City Pontiac Motorsports Club
Green Bastard Products
My F-Quick Garage
My GPF Garage

he had me worried I never knew there was a wrong way either

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Steve
'97 GTP VS cam, ZZP PCM, and not much else yet

Not a "wrong" way.
More for better looking wire, and for taping.
They way i was told and via MECP. Take both wires make an X twist wires till ends are flat. This makes it more stream lined and a lot easier to tape up.
As far as soder. You really dont have to use a lot. Just enough for it to flow between wires and that is it.

PS never touch the soder with the tip. Always heat the wire and the heated wire will melt the soder.

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We can’t help ourselves. We see a line, we want to cross it. Maybe it’s the thrill for trading the familiar for the unfamliliar. A personal dare. The only problem is once you’ve crossed it’s almost impossible to go back. But if you do manage to make it back across that line you find safety in numbers.

Actually that is the way most people do it, but the "best" (matter of opinion that is based on facts) and most secure way of securing the wire would be the hook and loop splice.

ps: the easiest way to solder, is touch the solder to the tip then put the melted solder on the top of the wire (this heats the wire up instantly to the temp of the melted solder) then move the soldering guns tip to the underneath of the wire and the solder will soak all through the wire and wall-ah you have a perfect solder joint instantly.

The only reason why people say not to touch the solder to the tip is they don't use the soldering guns enough and don't have to replace as often as someone who uses them everyday and/or just don't want to replace the tip or clean it properly. Trust me I have to replace soldering guns too often and old and crusty tips is the least of my worries.

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Steven Oliver
2004 GTP comp-g WS6. Gator and suede all around interior.
Advanced MECP certified installer, custom upholsterer.

Not sure what piece you're talking about, but Montes and Impalas don't have to have anything broken off. I've installed plenty into both cars (including my own) and it could return to stock in ten minutes.

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2004 Impala LS - got some mods
NAIOA Moderator

Making you think twice before picking on Impalas