Buying a 2000ish GTP. Trouble spots to look for?

The title kind of says it all, really. I'm looking to buy a 2000 or 2001 GTP. One was a michigan car, but has been here in FLa for 5 years. I don't know about the other one. Any areas prone to rust for me to check? Any things that typically need, or will soon need, work? Obviously the fluids, how it drives and a carfax are things to check. Anything else?
Thanks, Gas.

rattling pulley....

oh man the list goes on and on.

check behind the front strut towers
the rear strut towers,
under the gas door, rockers, pinchwelds, bottom of the fenders for rust


see if theres any coolant sitting on the lowerintake or if the injectors look wet around the bung hole.. the LIM gaskets should be replaced regardless if you buy the car.

check for front end clunks, take time and see how the tranny shifts.

Thanks for the ideas. I'll be looking at these cars tomorrow, and can use all the ideas you can throw at me. When you say "behind the strut towers", I'm not sure I follow you. At the upper mount or lower mount? Also, I'm not sure what pinchwelds are. I'll check them, but I need to know what they are first. Thanks.

Pinchwelds are where the body panels and the unibody meet underneath. If you look at the edge of the body just under the doors you will see them.

Check the front sway bar at both ends and see if its broken. Pull the oil dipstick and see if there are signs of coolant (will look muddy) and pull the oil cap on the valve cover and look for whiteish gunk there as well. Would indicate LIM gaskets leaking, which you're gonna change when you get it regardless.

Try and listen to the car at cold startup (first start of the day) and listen for any odd knocking or ticking. Yes the lifters can tick a bit as well as the injectors so it's not a deal breaker.

Listen for the sound of gravel rolling around in the SC snout. That would be a bad coupler. Also check the vacuum tee under the SC and see if it's dryrotted and cracked as that is common as well.

Oil leaks from the valve covers are common, as well as the coolant elbows.

Is the check engine light on?

Jack up the car and check for play in the wheel bearings. These are a common wear item.

As mentioned, check the tranny out real well. Pull the stick and see if the fluid is nice and red and does not smell burnt. If it looks like motor oil then chances are you will be installing a rebuild soon. Also make sure that it engages Overdrive while on the highway, then make sure that when pulling up a hill on the highway that it STAYS in OD. No shift to OD is probably a bad 4th clutch hub and requires a rebuild as well.

If it has a sunroof pour some water over it and check to be sure it drains properly. The drains will get clogged up over time and can leak into the interior.

Power Windows- Make sure that all the power windows work smoothly. If not, then the tracks are probably dry and need lubed. If the windows stick they tend to break the regulators quite often.

I had no idea I'd get this much help. Looks like the printer's getting some use today.