02 GP GT Coupe Security Question???

Please bear with me as I'm coming off an 86' Olds Cutlass and I'm not "up" on today's cars. So I bought my 02' Grand Prix GT Coupe a couple of days ago. When I bought it, the seller told me that the alarm wasn't working and that the stock radio had been stolen from it. The only key he had for the car was a regular key that looks like a spare. It's an all metal key, no black cover on the head, and no Fob for opening the doors or arming an alarm.


The car starts fine with this key and when I push the interior "lock" button, the car chimes 3 times and the doors lock automatically after I close the door. When the car is running the "security" sign flashes non stop. When I enter the car the red light on top of the dash begins to flash on and off, yet when I leave the car and the doors lock, it does NOT flash anymore. Only if I enter the car and don't start it.



I had no owner's manual with the car so I downloaded it from a website and upon reading it last night I found out that the car came with a "PassKey" that is "Chipped" which I think has something to do with the alarm. I already found two fobs on Ebay which I found out here how to program which is a good start. I called a locksmith today to find out about this "PassKey" thing and he told me that the car SHOULD NOT start with just that regular key. He said that maybe the previous owner had an "auto start" installed and that they often hide the PassKey under the dash somewhere so the car will start remotely.


Now please excuse my ignorance, but could someone give me some insight into the Passkey thing and the alarm system in general. I am totally lost when it comes to this kind of stuff but am electronically inclined so can understand the basics. I am looking at a stock radio unit on Ebay because I'd like to keep it stock but I'm not sure if the radio being disconnected has something to do with the alarm system or not.

Thanks so much for any help you can give me.

The alarm and pass key (VATS) are not connected. The chip in the key is just a resistor that the VATS detects, thus allowing the car to start. If you have a regular key and the car starts, then the VATS has probably been modified (Google "VATS GM bypass"). An "auto start" will only trick the VATS when the remote start is activated, not all the time, so I can't see that being the issue.

So, it sounds like the VATS is disabled, and you could get a new remote for the alarm. But be aware, the alarm is really just a keyless entry with a flashing LED. I would advise on looking at an aftermarket alarm if you want that feature.

Read this.....

Understanding GM VATS

Check under your dash for an aftermarket alarm/remote start unit. It sounds as if the passkey has been bypassed and you may already have a spare key, with the correct resistor, somewhere hidden in your car. If you're unsure what you're looking for, post a pic of under your dash, by the wires near the steering column.

Thanks so much guys! You have shed some light on the subject already. I will check tomorrow after work and snap a few pics of the column area. So if I do see this "bypass" done with the resister jumper, am I correct in saying that before getting a new Passkey Blank, that I would first have to re-enable the VATS system first, and then program the key using the method I saw in one of the threads here?

Originally Posted by Bronco Boy

The alarm and pass key (VATS) are not connected. The chip in the key is just a resistor that the VATS detects, thus allowing the car to start. If you have a regular key and the car starts, then the VATS has probably been modified (Google "VATS GM bypass"). An "auto start" will only trick the VATS when the remote start is activated, not all the time, so I can't see that being the issue.

So, it sounds like the VATS is disabled, and you could get a new remote for the alarm. But be aware, the alarm is really just a keyless entry with a flashing LED. I would advise on looking at an aftermarket alarm if you want that feature.

Thanks Chris. Thats a big help. I'm slowly understanding what may be the issue. I believe the kid that sold me the car already had gotten the car like this and didn't know much about anything electrical so didn't bother trying to fix it. Me on the other hand, would like the car to be back to normal or as close as possible to it. I will check for any tampering or hidden key as soon as I get home from work and post my findings. Thanks again so much. I'm so not used to these newer model cars but am learning much from you members here on the site!

Originally Posted by 02GPinNY

am I correct in saying that before getting a new Passkey Blank, that I would first have to re-enable the VATS system first, and then program the key using the method I saw in one of the threads here?

If you cannot find another key hidden in a bypass module, you will never know what the resistance is and I'm not sure if a dealership can find out without replacing the Vats module. If there is a key hidden in there, just buy a passkey 3 key off ebay for 10 bucks and have it cut. Start the car with the original key, then start the car with the new key. Key programmed.

Thanks so much Keith. I'll check it out later this afternoon. Great info!!!

Well, I got home and of course we had to have some storms come through, keeping me from removing any panels underneath the steering column. I'm going to have to wait for tomorrow and hope for some better weather conditions. I thought at first that most of the interior panels were modular and just popped off with tabs but my son said he saw screws beneath the steering column. I really need to get one of those Downloadable Service Manuals to help me navigate around the car.

Originally Posted by 02GPinNY

I thought at first that most of the interior panels were modular and just popped off with tabs but my son said he saw screws beneath the steering column.

There are 2 8mm bolts on the panel under the wheel. The surround that goes around the cluster and radio is all tabs, and you have to un-plug the fog light switch.

Originally Posted by Bronco Boy

There are 2 8mm bolts on the panel under the wheel. The surround that goes around the cluster and radio is all tabs, and you have to un-plug the fog light switch.

Thanks so much Chris. I really appreciate all the help. Hopefully one day I will be able to help out another member with their issues. Looks like another friggin rainy day in NY! UGH. I wish the car fit into my tiny garage but it's too wide to do any interior work with the door open.

Time to ask another question. In the event that tomorrow I do NOT find any transponder key under my dash anywhere, and do NOT see any jumpers under the steering column, will it be at all possible to program a blank transponder key AND wireless entry key fob to the car? I was able to purchase both from Ebay this morning. This is what I purchased:




AND:




Even if the key is a "dead end", would I at least be able to program the FOBs to work?? Thanks, and again, thanks for being patient with me on all these questions. I really appreciate the help.

The fob, yes. The key, no. You would need to know the correct resistance of your VATS unit. And there are 15 different resistances. You could buy each of the 15 different resistance keys and have them cut, but I would just keep using what you're using and pull the gauge cluster out and remove the bulb that is behind the security icon.

Originally Posted by KeithGTP03

The fob, yes. The key, no. You would need to know the correct resistance of your VATS unit. And there are 15 different resistances. You could buy each of the 15 different resistance keys and have them cut, but I would just keep using what you're using and pull the gauge cluster out and remove the bulb that is behind the security icon.

Great to know. So hopefully tomorrow when I pull that dash apart, I could find an original somewhere. As for the bulb, yes, it's friggin annoying, especially at night. I wonder why they sell these keys like that if there are so many different combos of resistors. Kind of sucks if you ask me. I'm glad at least that I'll be able to enter the car and exit using the Fob. That will be nice. I got the repair manual this morning so I have to start reading up on some stuff. Thanks again Keith for the help.

You're going to be looking for a unit like this one. It is approx. 4" by 3.5". The key will be inside this module. There will be 4 screws on the bottom of the module, remove those and it will open.

Originally Posted by 02GPinNY

I wonder why they sell these keys like that if there are so many different combos of resistors. Kind of sucks if you ask me.

They sell those keys because they can be programmed. But you need the original key in order to program it.

Originally Posted by KeithGTP03

You're going to be looking for a unit like this one. It is approx. 4" by 3.5". The key will be inside this module. There will be 4 screws on the bottom of the module, remove those and it will open.

Thanks Keith! I'll be searching for that. Hopefully I'll have some luck and find the original inside. If not, I'll take your advice and stick with what I have. I'll just make another copy of the one I have now for use as a spare. I'll let you know what I find. Thanks buddy!

Post a pick of the wires under your steering column and I'll let you know if there's anything aftermarket under there.

Originally Posted by KeithGTP03

Post a pick of the wires under your steering column and I'll let you know if there's anything aftermarket under there.

Yes, definitely. I don't want to touch anything I don't know. God forbid I disable the car or something. I have the camera charged up and ready to go. I'll take plenty of pics. Thanks Keith. Have a great evening!

Okay, I'm finally home. I got the car vacuumed, washed, and waxed. I checked the oil and other fluids and reset the Mileage thing. I still smell some anit-freeze after I shut the car off when it's hot but can't find anything leaking and she's not overheating or running hot. I may have to run a pressure test on the cooling system later this week. As for the alarm, I removed the panel under the column and couldn't find anything spliced or jumped. I took a bunch of pictures and studied them when I got home and don't see anything resembling the unit above. I will post the pics anyway since you may see something I don't.

Here is all the shots of the column area.....















These are the radio connections that are in where the radio used to be. I'm going to pick up a stock unit this week from Ebay and just replace it.



Aside from all these pics, the only thing I found which is NOT related to the alarm is this plug in the engine bay which is not connected to anything. Maybe someone knows where it goes or what it does. It looks like a weatherized plug so I don't know why it's not going to anything???






So I guess I'll just get the remote FOBS to work and have the guy install a new alarm system in it and call it a day. Then I'll disconnect that annoying Security light bulb on the dash. Thanks again for looking.